Wandering the postcard-perfect streets of Frigiliana, you’ll stumble upon a magnificent 16th-century building with a secret. This is the Palacio de Los Condes de Frigiliana, also known as the Palace of the Counts of Frigiliana. From the outside, it’s a stunning piece of Renaissance history. But behind its walls lies Europe’s oldest working factory for ‘miel de caña‘ (sugar cane honey). Here’s the catch, and what makes it so special: it opens its doors to the public for just one weekend a year.
Join us as we find out what makes the Palacio de Los Condes de Frigiliana the unmissable heart of this unique village on the Costa del Sol.
History of the Palace
To understand this place, you need to know a bit of its backstory. The palace was finished in the late 1500s as the grand family home for the Manrique de Lara clan, who’d held the lordship of Frigiliana and its lands since 1508. It was a power statement, built right as Frigiliana was transitioning from its Moorish past, and they even used stones from the old Arabic castle to construct it.
The really interesting twist came in the 1600s. After the area was successfully repopulated, farmers started growing sugar cane. A small mill was set up, and by 1725, it had been expanded into the proper ‘Ingenio’ (which basically means ‘mill’) we see today. It’s been churning out products ever since without a break. The baton was passed in 1928 when the De la Torre family bought the place, gave it a few modern touches, and renamed it ‘Ingenio Nuestra Señora del Carmen’, the name it still operates under today.
Architecture and style of the building
Let’s talk about the building itself. It’s a massive Renaissance affair, sprawling over 2,000 square metres. The first thing you’ll notice about the front is that it’s a bit… lopsided. It looks like the main part of the house got an extension tacked on the side later, which probably happened during that 18th-century upgrade.
What makes the facade really special are the ‘esgrafiados’ – those cool geometric patterns scratched into the plaster. You’ll also spot empty niches (which once held statues), a couple of old sundials, and a classic round window. If you think the front looks a bit like the town’s main church, San Antonio, you’re right. The same family built both around the same time, so they share a similar look.
Inside, it’s a mix of grand manor house and functional factory. The huge central space has a roof that’s a real piece of workmanship. The room on your right as you enter, which is now just used for storage, was actually the family’s private chapel, authorised by the Pope himself back in 1662.
Visits and what to see inside
Now, here’s the most important thing to know about visiting the Palace of the Counts Frigiliana: you can’t just pop in any day of the week. This is a privately-owned, working factory, not a public museum.
However, it opens its doors for one very special event each year. During the ‘Día de la Miel de Caña‘ (Sugar Cane Honey Day), which usually takes place on the first Saturday of May, the palace and factory are opened to the public. On this day only, they run guided tours of the factory and offer tastings. It’s a fantastic, lively festival and your one guaranteed chance to see the historic machinery and the count’s former salons from the inside.
So, while you can’t plan a standard visit, you can plan an unforgettable trip around this unique annual event. The rest of the year, you’ll have to be content with admiring the magnificent exterior and its famous sgraffito work, and of course, buying a bottle of its famous produce from the local shops.
To get the full picture of this lovely town, have a look at our more detailed guides on what to do in Frigiliana and the nearby Frigiliana Beach.
The surroundings of Frigiliana and its charms
This actually makes Frigiliana an even more interesting destination to plan around. The village itself is the main event, with its blindingly white streets, overflowing flower pots, and little hidden squares with stunning views. Knowing the palace’s limited access means you can fully immerse yourself in its charming streets, cafes, and artisan shops.
If your heart is set on seeing the inside of the Ingenio, you now know to aim for that first weekend in May. Its hilltop location is spot-on, offering cooler breezes and being just about 15 minutes from the coast. The bustling town of Nerja, with its famous Balcón de Europa and incredible caves, is right on your doorstep. If you’re planning a trip down there, our list of what to do in Nerja is a great place to start. You’ve got your pick of brilliant beaches, hidden coves, and restaurants serving up fantastic seafood.
This is your invitation to visit Frigiliana!
So, the Palacio de Los Condes de Frigiliana remains Frigiliana’s majestic, slightly secretive centrepiece. It’s a place of history and industry that guards its privacy for 364 days a year, making its annual opening a genuine local event.
To experience this, you’ll need to plan ahead. At Home has a great range of private villas and holiday apartments in the area, perfect for using as a base. If you want to catch the Sugar Cane Honey Day, you’ll know to book early for that specific period.
Find your perfect base with At Home, and get ready to explore a village that knows how to keep a wonderful secret.
